Friday, November 8, 2013

The Artist And The Juju



Eric and I have been meeting some fun and interesting people. Sunday we trekked with our Peace Corps friend to find an elusive bar we heard was located on top of the neighboring mountain. On the way we were to try and locate a plant nursery that we were told had rosemary seedlings! After about 5 up- hill miles we arrived at Eden. Or what seemed like Eden: a lovely farm bursting with fruit trees of every kind, fields of wheat, and general sense of peace and loveliness. The man who ran this nursery is called King George and was utterly delightful. Full of enthusiasm for nature and his education program he poured himself out into us. He had been working this place for about 20 years after several failed attempts to start an educational nursery farm. Of course we forgot our camera. (Though we have made plans to come again soon.) I was happy because he encouraged me to keep composting, which some locals had told me was stupid and wasteful.

After this stop, we wandered along the hilltop to the bar and met several more friends. We met a fantastic artist who is trying hard to sustain his small gallery here in Kumbo. We are hoping to go visit him and see more of his work. It is great to meet local people working hard to make Kumbo a richer place to be. While we sat and had our beer and soya two troupes of  jujus passes. Jujus are part of the traditional religion and they are men dressed in costume, each a different character according to traditions, and they are accompanied by an entourage. Some are mean and if you do not bow and avert your eyes they will whip you or hit you with sticks. Others beg and don't leave until you give them something. It is amazing to be in a crowd of full grown adults, dressed well and otherwise very respectable, crouching and hiding from costumed men. I got down and hid behind my chair; they are scary! We are still trying to learn about what jujus mean but it is difficult to find somebody to translate these complex systems of belief into a way we understand.

-Logan

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